Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
